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For many, boating in the Pacific Northwest has major thresholds both based on geography and experience level. Crossing each passage takes one a step up in knowledge and expands one's cruising experience. Most boaters in this area begin their cruising experience with trips to the San Juan Islands. Then they expand to the Gulf Islands, where passages across the straits and a border crossing and return build one's boating experience. Princess Louisa and Chatterbox Falls may beckon next with an exploration of the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. Then Desolation Sound calls, where one may stay away from marinas and anchor out for several days at a time.
The beauty and solitude gets better and better at each step in the process. Anchorages like Teakerne Arm with its dramatic waterfall are just an indication of what is to come as one proceeds further and further north. The next threshold may be cruising north of Desolation Sound where comfortably navigating the Yuculta and Dent Rapids, and Johnstone Strait will build further on your experience level.
Understanding the currents and the weather of British Columbia will start to become second nature and the anchorages will be more and more remote. There is so much to explore on both sides of the Inside Passage to the top of Vancouver Island and Cape Caution on the mainland side of B.C., that many never find the need or desire to cruise further. For others, who are seeking further adventure, the threshold of the top of Vancouver Island is just one more step to reaching their ultimate goal of cruising the entire Inside Passage to Alaska.
In Part 1 of this article, we began our journey north as three wooden boats that started in Olympia in a flotilla organized by boat builder and designer, Sam Devlin. Sam piloted his 1934, beautifully converted, double ender fishing troller, Josephine, with his girlfriend Soitza, son Mackenzie, and Black Lab pup Bella on board.
They were escorting Sam's former boat, a 1964 34' fishing trawler named Lean-To to Alaska. The new owner of Lean-To, Chad Morse, was taking the boat ultimately to its new home in Seward, Alaska along with his son, Joel. Rounding out the flotilla were Paul and Robin Dye of Bainbride Island, WA, who chartered a 29' Black Crown named Moonglow, a fast cruiser designed and built by Sam Devlin and launched in 1995. The Dyes joined the flotilla to expand their cruising experience within the comfort of a flotilla with plans to visit the area on their own in the future.
After setting out from Olympia, our flotilla over six days proceeded north through the San Juan Islands, to Nanaimo and up through the rapids and Johnstone Strait to Port Hardy. This is as far as many cruisers go as there are plenty of cruising opportunities in Desolation Sound and The Broughton Island Group. For some, their annual cruise may be limited by available time. Some are also concerned about facing the challenge of the sea conditions when crossing Queen Charlotte Sound and passing Cape Caution, exposed to the open Pacific Ocean. Now it was time for our flotilla to pass the next major threshold and pick our time for the best crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound on our trip north.
Crossing Queen Charlette Sound
We left off last month north of Port Hardy in "Walker Cove," a sheltered area between Kent and Staples Islands in the Walker Island Group, just north of the top of Vancouver Island and 11 miles North of Port Hardy. From this forward overnight anchorage we would minimize our crossing time and start as early as possible, just after sunrise. The best local knowledge for a crossing of Queen Charlotte Strait is to leave in the early morning when the winds typically are lighter and the resulting seas calmer.
The stories of ships foundering while crossing Queen Charlotte Sound and passing Cape Caution are legendary. Just past Cape Caution is the Egg Island manned lighthouse. While situated high up on a rock, with the swell and waves crashing below, it has seen some of the fiercest weather on the western North American seacoast. Years ago, the lighthouse keepers watched in horror as the waves rose to the height of the base lighthouse compound, 100 feet above the water's edge, washing away parts of the buildings and damaging their home. The resident lighthouse keepers at the time retired after that incident.
But the weather gods were shining in our favor on the day of our crossing. We plotted a course that would keep us clear of the rocks and many small islets along the way while two miles off Cape Caution. We had been closely tracking the Environment Canada weather broadcasts for the last couple of days as a ridge of high pressure worked its way into the area. This provided the calm, glassy sea conditions during our passage up Johnstone Strait the prior couple of days. Our stay in Port Hardy for provisioning and last minute maintenance kept us on edge, watching the weather and hoping the high pressure would remain over the area. The weather report looked promising with predictions of a southwest wind of 10-15 knots or less. We decided to plan for a 4:30am departure, at first light, when sea conditions should be best.
The morning's weather report on the VHF still sounded very good, with relatively calm seas reported. The West Otter ocean buoy, sitting about five miles offshore, reported waves of less than 1.8 meters. While waves, or ocean swells, of five feet might seem intimidating, this is good weather for the 35 mile crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound. We could have chosen to wait for better, but the conditions looked good and we proceeded to leave.
Once outside the protection of the islands, the motion of the four foot swells started. For some on our flotilla this passage led to a bit of queasiness. The crew of Josephine put their passive stabilizers out to smooth out the ride. While there was swell, there was relatively no wind and the passage was straight forward. After two hours, we passed Cape Caution at our cruising speed of eight knots. Then, Egg Island and the Egg Island lighthouse. We were tempted to call and wish the lighthouse keepers a good morning, but it was still very early.
We expected to see other boats crossing but saw none, possibly because our departure from "Walker Group Cove" at 4:30 am gave us an early start over faster boats leaving from Port Hardy or Port McNeil.
One of the advantages to traveling in a flotilla is the communication and sharing of ideas that can go on while underway. Decisions on weather and the next location can be shared and discussed and everyone learns more and benefits from the combined experience of the group.
Moonglow found their best speed over the swells for a comfortable, stable ride at 11 knots, They elected to proceed ahead and wait for the rest of the group in the appropriately named Safety Cove, just above the southern tip of Calvert Island. Soon after we passed into the lee of Calvert Island several hours later, the southwest swell was blocked and with no wind, the water flattened out for a very pleasant ride. We had crossed Queen Charlotte Sound with no problems. We decided to attempt to proceed as far north as practical that day. There were several interesting locations along the way that were considerations for day stops or overnight anchorage such as Pruth Bay, on the north end of Calvert Island. The bay is well sheltered with an interesting trail leading through the woods and breaking out on the western coast to a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean. We considered Codville Lagoon Marine Park for an overnight anchorage. This is a natural, well-protected harbor with a narrow entrance between the trees. The saltwater lagoon is quite large and has an island. The best anchorage area is to the eastern side where a trail leads to Sagar Lake above.
Instead, we elected to proceed up the Lama Passage towards New Bella Bella and Shearwater Marina, as the engine on one of the boats in our flotilla was still acting up. Shearwater would be the last chance for any marine repairs for the next 180 miles, until Prince Rupert.
After proceeding up the channel, the large native settlement of New Bella Bella comes into view to port. The dock at New Bella Bella has fuel and water for those passing through. A well stocked grocery store is at the head of the dock for provisions. From New Bella Bella a turn to starboard, and after a run of less than three miles, the Shearwater Marina comes into view.
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